This tips comes from several dive computers manufactures to avoid Dropouts…
When a dive light causes a wireless tank transmitter to drop its signal or fail underwater, it is usually due to electromagnetic interference (EMI) or radio frequency interference (RFI) emitted by the light’s internal LED driver circuit, or a shared power drop if batteries are critically low.
TIPS
Increase Distance: Keep your primary dive light mounted on your Goodman handle or hand, well away from the tank transmitter on your first stage or the computer on your wrist.
Check Batteries: Swap or fully charge the batteries in both the dive light and the transmitter. Low voltage changes the operating frequency and output power of electronic circuits, making them much more susceptible to noise and drops.
Use a HP Hose Extension: Move the transmitter off the direct port of the first stage using a short high-pressure hose extension. This clears physical and electronic blind spots.
Upgrade Gear: Switch to a high-quality, name-brand dive light with certified electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) shielding, or service/replace an aging transmitter.
My dive lights usually are:
2x Divevolk LS50 ( video lights mounted on Gopro) away from transmitter.
1x Wurkkos LS05 ( torch bolt snap attached to Nautic Bungee cord)
1x Prozhaozhu ( strobe beacon bolt snap attached to Nautic Bungee cord)
Curious: coincidence or not, when i stop using cheap TDS DZENOT backup light the dropouts stop